Jewellery Guides

Be it the precious metals, the gemstones or the craftsmanship - understand the value of each component of your jewellery. Discover more about the pieces you love.

The Four C's
Cut, Clarity, Carat, Colour

How to choose the right metal for your diamond

You know the saying … A diamond is forever? Unfortunately, that’s not the case when the diamond doesn’t sit in a ring designed and made to last forever. 


Choosing the right gem and style for a ring is difficult enough, especially when it’s meant to be a surprise. Whether it’s a diamond or coloured gemstone, our heads are filled with certain ideas about carats, colour and clarity but we tend to forget about something even more important: The material that holds this precious stone. 
No doubt you’ll find a lot on offer that says “handcrafted”. Our advice is you should always double check that is not just cast and hand assembled. Don’t be tricked into thinking this is hand crafted. If the piece is actually made from cast, then it’s hands off! 

Brittle and flawed

Most of the jewellery on offer today has been produced by filling a mould with a metal mixture to create a casting. It’s hard to know which alloys are used in those factories where low quality metals are mixed together to create customized pieces. While this process is certainly an efficient way to produce reasonable fashion jewellery it is certainly not made for eternity. 
If we think back to our science days, we know that a liquid turned to a solid (especially where metal is concerned) can cause tiny air holes throughout. This is called porosity. These tiny air holes may not be apparent below the surface but over time may rear their ugly head on the surface. This means small claws can be left brittle and large surface areas flawed. You could be facing years of unnecessary repairs. Not heard or read about this before? Then the jewellers you have been going to may be casting their pieces.

Why handmake?

There’s a simple reason... We love chemistry! The molecules of a metal treated by hand i.e. hammered, tempered and rolled, get flattened. This gives the molecules a greater surface area and makes the metal dense and more durable. The metal becomes strong and work hardened meaning it can always be reworked. 

If we look at a diamond, every single one is unique, like a snowflake. Therefore it makes sense that there is not one setting or casting that suits all. A specially handmade setting created to suit the specifications of each unique stone means you will have a ring that will have integrity and has been designed to last forever.

Handmade jewellery is not only stronger it is generally more aesthetically pleasing, having a finesse that only hand making can create. At Bill Hicks we believe in handmaking your jewellery. We design your pieces to be practical, to suit you and your lifestyle. We ensure your diamond or gemstone is set within a ring of exceptional quality. 

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